Brief History of Electrology

A brief look at the history of electrology In 1875 Charles E. Michael M.D. removed an ingrown eyelash from a patient by using a fine wire attached to a galvanic battery. This process would soon be called Electrolysis. He later pursued the idea of using the same process to remove other body and facial hair. In 1916 the multiple needle machines were introduced. This is where 16 to 20 needles were used so that more than one hair could be removed at a time, still taking one minute to one and a half minutes more hair could be removed. It wasn’t until the 1940’s that high frequency (Thermolysis) became popular for permanent hair removal and was thought to be superior due to its speed. This process of hair removal was found to be quick and useful. It was also determined that high frequency worked well with the removal of fine hairs. It was later found to have a high amount of re-growth especially with deep difficult hairs. In 1945, “The Blend” was introduced, allowing professionals to combine the speed of Thermolysis with the thoroughness of galvanic. This process was found to be very successful and effective against distorted follicles and heavy, troublesome hairs. In time the word Electroylsis became a synonymous term for the process of permanent hair removal wither high frequency or galvanic was used.

An inside look at the world of Electrology

For centuries men and women have been bothered by unwanted hair. There are many methods that were being used.

Cleopatra would have been thrilled to find a good electrologist. Ancient Egyptian social customs required that both men and women appear completely hairless from head to toe. The famous queen routinely applied a powerful mixture of quicklime and arsenic, designed to disintegrate all undesirable hair, to her own bare skin. Labor-intensive and unsafe, unfortunately for Cleopatra it didn’t last.

Neither did the efforts of Ugandan Dodingo tribe’s people, who traditionally removed body hair by applying and then removing with great force, thick adhesive resin packs.

A brief look at the history of electrology

In 1875 Charles E. Michael M.D. removed an ingrown eyelash from a patient by using a fine wire attached to a galvanic battery. The battery produced an uninterrupted direct current. This process would soon be called Electrolysis. From the definition in the dictionary of Electrolysis by Gould’s Medical Dictionary, 1926: “Electrolysis is the dissolution of a chemical compound by an electric current.” He later pursued the idea of using the same process to remove other body and facial hair.

In 1890 an Alternating Current was recorded as being introduced into muscle tissue without causing any muscle contractions or stimulation. This process also used the probe but it focused on the heating effects of an alternating, high frequency current. This process was called “Thermolysis” due to its thermal action.

In the 1990’s x-ray technology was used as cited in the book Cosmetic Electrolysis and the Removal of Superfluous Hair, stating: “X-ray will remove hair quickly, painlessly, and permanently. But whenever a skin is treated with x-ray long enough for the hair to be destroyed, the x-ray will also have such harm to the skin that the skin is almost certain to develop x-ray sequelae and often cancer.” So this method was soon dropped from use.

In 1916 the multiple needle machines were introduced. This is where 16 to 20 needles were used so that more than one hair could be removed at a time, still taking one minute to one and a half minutes more hair could be removed.

It wasn’t until the 1940’s that high frequency (Thermolysis) became popular for permanent hair removal and was thought to be superior due to its speed. This process of hair removal was found to be quick and useful. It was also determined that high frequency worked well with the removal of fine hairs. It was later found to have a high amount of re-growth especially with deep difficult hairs.

In 1945, “The Blend” was introduced, allowing professionals to combine the speed of Thermolysis with the thoroughness of galvanic. This process was found to be very successful and effective against distorted follicles and heavy, troublesome hairs.

In time the word Electroylsis became a synonymous term for the process of permanent hair removal wither high frequency or galvanic was used.

Current used and their effects

There are two main forms of current used for the permanent elimination of hair, alternating current and direct current. These currents are used in three different ways and they are as listed below:

· Electrolysis: Since the 1940’s the term Electrolysis has been used generally as the term for permanent hair removal. Electrolysis is the use of the direct current the effect it produces is a chemical reaction turning the salt and moisture already present in the tissue, into a new chemical called “Sodium Hydroxide” otherwise known as “Lye”. The Lye is highly caustic, and dissolves the Papilla, hair, germ cell, and the tissue of the follicle. What is technically occurring is that the atoms split apart into ions. Two molecules of salt will be rearranged into one molecule of chlorine gas and two molecules of Lye. It is by this means that hairs A, B, & C are effectively treated. The chemical is able to follow the curvature of the follicle, or get around the full circumference of medium and large hairs before it reaches the upper part of the skin to cause over treatment. For a hair to be permanently eliminated it must be sufficiently treated. This is usually the number one problem.

· Thermolysis: As defined in Gould’s medical dictionary Thermolysis is the “chemical decomposition by means of heat.” This technique uses alternating current (A.C.) a current that is similar to your household current and it produces heat, like the burner on a stove. Thermolysis is most effectively used for treating very fine to medium sized hairs rather than the heavy or curly hair. The heavy or curly hair requires more time to remove and due to the heat pattern that would reach the surface of the skin could cause over treatment (scabbing). Thus, Thermolysis would not be practical to use for such hair removal.

· Blend: Is the use of Thermology and Electrology at the same time. You receive the speed of Thermolysis with the thoroughness of Electrolysis.

Cycles of Hair

There are three stages of a hairs life called cycles. The three cycles of a hair are Anagen, Catagen, and Telagen.

· Anagen is the active growth stage. The hair on average will take 3 months to form and become visible on the face. This hair after it emerges from the orifice will continue to grow for 2 weeks to several months. After this hair stops growing it is said to be in the Catagen stage.

· Catagen stage will last for a few weeks. In the beginning Catagen the hairs supply to nourishment is cut off, however it does receive some nourishment from the sub capillary pluxes for a short time until it eventually dies and is shed.

· Telogen is the final stage of the hair cycle. It is said to be both the end where the hair follicle is simply resting and the beginning right before going into the Anagen stage.

During this time it is the electrologist who will observe the natural hair shedding process. For example, when you brush your hair you find hair in your brush, however you always look the same. Because of the cycles of growth, you never really notice any difference. Had the hair all cycled in the same cycle at the same time we would be bald and then hairy.

Completion Time

The length of time to complete a treatment plan will vary from person to person. Variables such as frequency of visits, medical conditions, skin sensitive, etc. There are also dormant hairs that for whatever reason may lie dormant for perhaps a year then decide to grow again. We also see an approximation of 20% re-growth of treated hair that will need to be re-treated. On average it takes three months for a hair to form and become visible. Since our hairs are in one of these three cycles and we need to treat the hairs in the Anagen stage, then it will take 9 months to see all the hairs and since treatment will last on an average of 12 to 16 months.

The Process

To accomplish permanent hair removal the electrologist begins by sliding a filament (a fine wire) or probe, the size of the hair being treated, into the existing hair follicle. A little bit of current is given to stop the flow of blood or cauterized the blood supply to destroy hair germ cell and papilla. The hair is then epilated. This can be accomplished by using any of the following three techniques: Electrolysis, Thermolysis, and Blend all that were described earlier.

Modality Current Set-Up

Galvanic may be applied either with a single probe or multiple needles (probes) (8-20). Multiple needles are used since it takes an average of 1 to 1 ½ minutes to treat a hair. In this way many hairs are removed in that 1 to 1 ½ minutes. To determine how much to treat with galvanic a simple formula is used. Current intensity (tenths of milliamps) X treatment time = units of Lye produced. Now to determine how many units is needed refer to page 211 in the book Electrolysis, Thermolysis, and the Blend by Arthur Ralph Hinkel, under the units of lye chart.

Type of Hair	Quantity of Lye for Blend	Lye Galvanic
Shallow-lanugo	15	45
Medium deep-terminals	45	135
Visual deep terminal	60	180
Very deep terminal	80	240

This chart is for the blend formula. Now turn to page 207 “the blend requires only one fourth the amount of galvanic lye ordinarily needed to effect a permanent elimination of a follicle.”

From my experience I have found that if you triple the above quantity of the lye chart you now have a quantity of lye for the formula for heather is as follows: (intensity the can comfortably tolerate (10^th of a milliamp) ÷ the quantity of lye needed for the hair type = seconds to apply current). Example: 4/10 ma ÷ 45 lye needed = 12 seconds.

Thermolysis: is the use of high frequent current to destroy tissue of the follicle. There are two ways to use Thermolysis, flash and manual methods. Flash is the use of high intensity, high frequency; it produces electro desiccation (a drying action), which requires approximately a temperature of 212 degrees Fahrenheit. The flash is applied to the follicle in tenths of a second and must use an automatic timing device. The pattern of destruction is very narrow and is not very effective in destruction of medium to course hairs on the first treatment. This method should be limited to the fine and shallow hairs. The manual method uses low intensity high frequency Thermolysis, electro-coagulation (cooking action) that requires approximately a temperature of 127 degrees Fahrenheit. Manual Thermolysis is applied for 2 to 8 seconds on average. The heating pattern for manual is wider and more capable of effectively treating a medium to course hair.

To determine how long to treat a hair we simply lightly tug on a hair to test for looseness. If it slides out without even tugging it means that the treatment is complete. The important feature of the blend is that the Thermolysis production of heat makes the lye produce Electrolysis more caustic so the time needed with galvanic & units of lye are greatly reduced.

In the time you would treat a hair with manual Thermolysis you can now treat a hair with the blend in the same amount of time.

So why choose the blend? Because you are coagulating (cooking) the follicle with Thermolysis which makes the tissue more porous and the lye being produced can follow the shape of the follicle and with the turbulence produced by the heat of the lye will be pushed around the follicle for a more thorough treatment with less time required by straight galvanic Electrolysis. Using the units of lye chart find the intensity the client can comfortably tolerate with manual high frequency, count the seconds it takes to treat and the hair slides out easily, now divide the seconds to the units of lye. The result is the intensity you need to use for galvanic.

EX_H.F. intensity 5 seconds to epilate hair divided into the units of lye needed -> (30) = 6/10 MA

During the treatment the patient will feel a tingly sensation or warmth; this may vary depending on the sensitivity of the patient. The amount of hair removed during a treatment can be determined by the electrologist. The amount of hair removed is also determined by the amount of toleration the patient can handle. This is due to the fact that the higher the intensity the faster the electrologist can work. The amount of time can vary from visit to visit depending on the client’s needs. How thick the hair is? How large an area is being treated? If it is true with the client, the intensity can be turned down for that visit.

Electrolysis is accomplished by inserting a fine wire called a probe in the hair follicle alongside the hair. Current is then applied cauterizing the lower 2/3’s of the follicle. For permanent elimination of the hair the lower 2/3’s of the hair is then removed with forceps. 2/3’s of the follicle must be fully treated. The current applied for tenths of a second to a minute depending on the type of treatment. In electrolysis what’s more important than speed is the angle of insertion and the depth to which the hair grows. Improper angle or depth would merely result in the growing back of hair that is known as re-growth. The deeper the insertion made the greater the flow of current into the follicle, also the greater the depth the more moisture contact you will receive.

Proper insertion is determined by the angle at which the hair emerges from the epidermis and the depth which the hair is growing. To determine the angle and depth one must observe the hair in the area. The probe should be lined up with the hair and may vary from 30° to 60°. Once the angle is determined, a straight smooth insertion is used. If any resistance is felt the probe should be removed and a new attempt tried. Then the current is applied. Once a hair with a bulb sheath is removed this hair will be used as a guide for a depth of insertion. Insertion depth is determined by grasping the hair with the tweezers at the level of the skin. The portion of the hair from skin level down will be held next to the probe. This is the depth you will insert the probe.

Studies have shown for the permanent elimination of a hair that 2/3’s of the follicle must be treated. In the past it was thought that if the papilla was treated the follicle. It is now known that not only do we need to eliminate the papilla but also the hair germ cells in the lower 2/3’s of a hair follicle that can regenerate a new papilla. By eliminating the papilla and capillary which supplies the follicle you eliminate its ability to produce a hair. The pattern of electrical energy must be sufficient to treat the lower 2/3’s of the follicle. Destroying the dermal cells is just as vital a target for the electrologist as the existing dermal papilla.

The number of treatments needed varies from person to person, due to the cycles of hair growth. It is not possible to treat all the hair at one time either. On an average it takes approximately nine months to one year before all the hairs will have been able to be treated, due to human error and some cases where the skin won’t permit enough current to eliminate the hair without over treating the skin.

Post Treatment Skin Characteristics

After the treatment the patient will experience a slight pink to dark rose, even a reddish color on their skin after treatment. This should last 15-30 minutes. There shouldn’t be any scabbing, but if it happens the patient should call his/her electrologist, so they can note it on the patient’s chart so that adjustments could be made so that it doesn’t happen again. If it should happen, the patient should not remove the scab for better healing.

After an area has been cleared, the patient’s time or frequency of visits will start to decrease, unless of course there are more areas in which hair removal is desired.

Hairs that either hypertrichosis or superfluous in nature can be eliminated by electrolysis safely and effectively. Hypertrichosis is an abnormal abundance of hair. An increased blood supply will encourage hair growth. It will also cause the hair to grow deeper and coarser.

Causes of Unwanted Hair

Hormonal: Such as when a person is becoming an adult what is known as secondary sex traits will appear for the female as well as the male. Adjusting hormone levels at this time may cause excess hair growth.

Pregnancy: The growth of finer and longer hairs on the face, stomach, and chest is not uncommon. After the pregnancy a small percent of women will lose this new hair, however for most it remains to grow darker.

Menopause: Women as young as their thirties have had early menopause symptoms which will result in unwanted hair. The normal however is experienced later in life when the reproductive organs change which lowers their estrogen levels that results in a increased male hormone (testosterone) and androgen which can result in excessive hair growth.

Medication: There are many medications which have a side effect of causing excessive hair growth.

Other Methods of Hair Removal

Depilatories: A chemical that dissolves the hair. The results to this method however are temporary removal of the hair, and may cause a rash or even weeping. This must be done two times a week for life.

Abrasives: Uses a Pumice Stone to rub away hair. The results are temporary and may also stimulate additional hair growth, thus worsening the hair problems.

Shaving: Where a razor is used to shave away hair. The results are also temporary and it is possible to receive nicks and cuts. This method may also be hard to use in some areas. This also makes the hair appear heavier.

Bibliography

Sources actually used: Bordeaux, Delmar e. B.S.M.A.

Cosmetic Electrolysis, the removal of superfluous hair 1942, Bellevue Books

Gould, Gorge M., A.M., M.D. Gould’s Medical Dictionary 1926

Hinkel, Arthur Ralph P.E.E. Electrolysis, Thermolysis and the blend 1968, Arroway

Lind, Richard w. B.A, M.A.

Shapiro, Julius electrolysis 1981 Professional Education Seminar Inc.

Back To Basics

The Probe: Which One's For Me?

The probe has been advertised in many forms by manufacturers. One thing you must keep in mind is that all manufacturers make claims needing to influence us to purchase THEIR probe.

Now, sometimes they try to find a new way to excite you and to draw you into using their product. The word is Buyer Beware.

So let's go back to the basics. In the book Electrology, Thermology, and the Blen by Hinkel there is a very good outline of the different types of needles and/or probes.

Not much has really changed. Just like our fashion of today we are back in the 60/70's with a little different material but it is really the same basic style (product). What has changed is the generation that is buying the product - seeing it as new.

The type of probes that currently exist are:

1. Two-piece probe
a. gold
b. stainless steel
c. insulated
2. One-piece probe
a. tradicional tapered probe as stated in Hinkel's book, it has length and diameter requirements. (Meant to fit into the mouth of the follicle to reduce Thermology current upon the surface)
b. tapered without length requirements (an example: the Ballet tapered probes are meant to be used like a two-piece probe).
c. gold
d. stainless steel
e. insulated

Both two-piece and one-piece are available in disposable and non-sterile.

Manufacturers have always told the professional and the consumers things that are not totally accurate. This is called "Grey" advertising. Whatever it takes to make the sale.

The manufacturers allude to the fact that you will have less surface irritation and the client is going to feel less discomfort. Now, how can this be true? It is ONLY the power of suggestion. The placebo effect.

If you look at a table for different metals and how they conduct you will find that gold is a much better conductor than stainless steel. If you have seen some of the advertising produced it mentions that you will be able to reduce or need to reduce the intensity settings. Why would this be? Because after all isn't it suppose to be less sensitive? Quite a question mark isn't it.

Because gold conducts better the Thermology/Galvanic current flow is going to be better. The client is going to feel a little more sensation and possibly you will see more effects of the current so you will possibly need to turn your settings down a little.

To address the possibility of a client's allergic reaction to a metal, I would recommend that you do a patch test. Simply insert the probe into the follicle or place on the surface of the skin without current for the amount of time you would normally treat the follicle. You will need to wait 24 hours to see if there is any skin irritation. If not, and you are experiencing irritation during your normal treatments it is more likely to be your treatment (current) not the metal.

The Insulated Probe

Manufacturers have presented advertisements stating that it was not for use with Galvanic current - its use was for Thermology current. At this particular time the majority of operators were Thermology operators only. The manufacturer was looking at where his largest demand was - again this is marketing. According to Hinkel's book the coating will do NOTHING for Thermology. The diameter is increased very slightly especially with todays manufacturing techniques. The Galvanic current is the current that benefits from this insulated probe because it does not allow part of the probe's current to come in contact with moisture.

Stainless Steel

Offers no frills. It is just a probe that conducts well, won't rust and is durable.

A two-piece probe

Offers uniform sizing from the tip to the shank which will produce a uniform treatment area.

In Summary, it is wonderful to have a selection of probes that have different applications and we, as professionals, are able to choose accordingly to our client's needs. Our decision should be based upon our knowledge and not just advertising claims.